Trastevere, literally translated as across the Tiber, is the most authentically roman neighborhood of the city historic center. Tourists flock here to stroll down the narrow cobblestone streets, visit artisan’s shops, dine in one of the many excellent sidewalk trattorias, or just watch the daily life locals. What pleasure to have discovered the new Hotel Santa Maria, first accommodation to speak of in the area, which has proved to be a true winner. Native Romans owner Paolo Vetere had the ingenious idea of transforming a plot of open land between the jumble of ancient apartment buildings into a unique one story hotel with rooms looking out to two courtyards with orange trees. The staff welcome travelers as private house guests, serving a buffet breakfast with freshly baked cakes either out in the courtyard or in the inviting breakfast room/wine bar. Before going out for dinner in one of many nearby favorite restaurants, guests enjoy a glass of wine with nibbles from a local bakery. Bedrooms, each with its own entrance to the outside, are hand painted, with a splash of color on matching bedspreads and curtains, and enjoy amenities such as air conditioning, mini-bar, TV and free internet and WIFI.

By Nicole Franchini & Clare Brown 

Italy Charming B&B's